So we left Serengeti for the three (which of course meant at least five) hour drive to Lake Manyara, as we drove out of the Serengeti the number of zebra and gazelle seemed to have multiplied overnight, a giraffe popped his head out from behind a tree as if to say goodbye, we saw another blue monkey darting up a tree, and a beautiful flame headed lizard then we left the park.
On the way to the lake we stopped at a Masai village, the whole village came out and performed a welcome dance for us, their leader explained that the men and women actually sing different songs but at the same time, the men sing about becoming strong and the jump amazingly high, the women sing about how important the cow is to the Masai people, it really was a wonderful sight.
We entered the gates of the village and were told all about the life of the Masai – for the boys from the ages 0 to 5 they do nothing but play and occasionally sing songs to “make rain” , from 5 to 12 they must take care of the animals from the village, they take the animals into the bush to find food and water, between 12 and 15 they are circumcised, presented with the traditional spear, shield and red cloak, then they must go into the bush to prove themselves as worthy warriors. It used to be that they had to hunt and kill a lion, using only the spear and shield, and had to return to the village with the lions tail, however all forms of hunting wild animals thankfully is now illegal, and so it is now birds. From 17 to 30 they must protect the village, and then at 30 they become Elders of the village and make the laws. After 60 they do nothing, they are looked after by the rest of the village.The women on the other hand are kept busy looking after the children and the Elders, helping to build huts, getting water (often from many miles away), milking the cows, making the food, and also to supplement their income they make jewellery to sell to the tourists. Although traditionally the Masai only consumed cattle blood and milk, we were told they are now getting grains and other supplies from the towns. I watched the children playing and one beautiful little girl captured my heart, I asked if I could take her picture, when you see her you will know why.
The Leader took us inside a traditional Masai hut, they are still made the same way, from sticks, and then straw and cow dung on the roof, there was a living area with a small fire in the middle and then two “bedrooms” which were small areas raised off the floor, one for the adults and one for the children, it was dark and smoky and surprisingly warm inside. They allowed us to take pictures, as long as you asked, the Masai believe if you take their photo without asking permission you take away their sole. For a moment I felt bad for the children, sleeping in huts, no electricity or running water, no toys, but then you saw them running around the camp hitting an old bicycle tyre with a stick like a hoop, laughing and happy and you realise they have never known anything else. Kavishe told us that the Masai do now send their children to school and that they are naturally bright children and are always at the top of the class. We did buy a couple of bracelets from the women that were beautifully made from porcupine spines, said goodbye, then got into the jeep for our onward trek to Lake Manyara.
Somehow despite the ridiculously bumpy (and by bumpy I mean three times I actually twonked my head on the roof of the jeep!) roads, Cathryn managed to sleep all the way to the Lake. As we drove there were zebra, giraffe and wildebeest sometimes mixed in with a herd of Masai cows, it totally amazed me. We arrived at the Serena Lodge in Manyara and a reasonably early time, which meant for the first time we could actually go for a swim in the pool, it was an infinity pool that was built into the side of the mountain, it was the most beautiful pool I have ever been in.
We jumped out of the pool, got a couple of beers in and watched the most amazing display of African acrobats around the pool, then went back to our hobbit hut to get ready for dinner, and an early night, ready for yet another game drive, but this time around Lake Manyara.Lake Manyara was very different, it was lush and cool, an inscription on the way into the park caught my eye, it said "Remove nothing from the park except nourishment for the soul, consolation for the heart and inspiration for the mind" The park was apparently the home to thousands of baboons, we soon found a few, it reminded of trips to the local safari park when I was a child, the baboons climbed onto the jeep, one little one started licking the window, it was so cute.
We saw so many giraffe, gazelle and elephant, some lovely pelicans that were tinged with pink, flamingos in the distance, it was another wonderful day. In thee afternoon we stopped at some tourist stalls that were on the side of the road they were filled with beautiful paintings and jewellery and the most wonderful ebony and mahogany carvings.
We left after a bit of haggling and a few souvenirs and went on to the local village which was called something like Mosquito creek....oh great I thought, but apparently all the mosquito's had gone! I wasn't convinced. We were given a lovely outdoor lunch with beer in a beautiful garden with lemon trees all around. After lunch we were taken on a tour of the local hospital where the doctor there (who was a Masai that had been lucky enough to go to school) told us of the work they were doing to try and combat AIDS, he showed us the wards, and then the kitchen where they patients have to cook their own food. They were building a maternity ward also and were also doing sterling work with immunisation. It was an eye opener and I will NEVER complain about the National Health Service here. After that we were taken to see a banana plantation, but were very surprised by a fierce hailstorm....who would have thought it? The hailstones were like golf balls, we took shelter under little hut where a family were carving the animals that go to the tourist shops, they explained that their father had come from Ethiopia (he had walked!) and he was a carver and he had taught all the boys to carve also, they were lovely, generous people and even offered to take us inside the house to shelter. The hailstorm passed and we carried on through the plantation, but the hailstones had caused devastation to all the banana plants it was a sad sight. My doubt about the mosquito's was confirmed as the dampness had brought them out in force! As we walked on we saw the local school the children ran to the fence to ask us for pens, I only had one left so popped it through the fence. I loved the fact all the children had little plastic cups and were collecting the hailstones and eating them, they had also removed their shoes and were splashing about in the water.
Our guide then took us to the local pub, which unfortunately was completely flooded, not deterred the "landlord" brought some benches over to a dry patch for us to sit on, and then told us how they made the banana beer, by boiling bananas for hours and then adding millet and waiting for it ferment, he then brought over a cup of the beer, which still has all the millet floating in it, and passed it around for us to taste. Now this beer looked like the muddy water we were surrounded by, but not to offend I took the cup and put it to my mouth, however I did chicken out and only smelled it, I like my beer with no lumps in! The landlord said it was traditional for a group to buy one beer and pass it around, then once empty the next person in the group of friends buy one, he said if you bough a beer just for yourself you were showing off how much money you have.
We left the pub and went back to our hotel for our final night, it had been an amazing (sorry) safari and while the safari was now at an end the holiday wasn't we had five days in Zanzibar to look forward to. Five days of relaxing, swimming and sunbathing.........no dust, no bumpy jeep rides, no more animals......I wondered how long it would take for me to get bored.
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