




Everyday rubbish from a sleepy village in South Wales written by an actress and singer who is waiting for Lord Lloyd Webber (or opportunity) to knock, and while she's waiting she enjoys being a COMPLETE FOODIE!
On the way to the lake we stopped at a Masai village, the whole village came out and performed a welcome dance for us, their leader explained that the men and women actually sing different songs but at the same time, the men sing about becoming strong and the jump amazingly high, the women sing about how important the cow is to the Masai people, it really was a wonderful sight.
The Leader took us inside a traditional Masai hut, they are still made the same way, from sticks, and then straw and cow dung on the roof, there was a living area with a small fire in the middle and then two “bedrooms” which were small areas raised off the floor, one for the adults and one for the children, it was dark and smoky and surprisingly warm inside. They allowed us to take pictures, as long as you asked, the Masai believe if you take their photo without asking permission you take away their sole. For a moment I felt bad for the children, sleeping in huts, no electricity or running water, no toys, but then you saw them running around the camp hitting an old bicycle tyre with a stick like a hoop, laughing and happy and you realise they have never known anything else. Kavishe told us that the Masai do now send their children to school and that they are naturally bright children and are always at the top of the class. We did buy a couple of bracelets from the women that were beautifully made from porcupine spines, said goodbye, then got into the jeep for our onward trek to Lake Manyara.
Somehow despite the ridiculously bumpy (and by bumpy I mean three times I actually twonked my head on the roof of the jeep!) roads, Cathryn managed to sleep all the way to the Lake. As we drove there were zebra, giraffe and wildebeest sometimes mixed in with a herd of Masai cows, it totally amazed me. We arrived at the Serena Lodge in Manyara and a reasonably early time, which meant for the first time we could actually go for a swim in the pool, it was an infinity pool that was built into the side of the mountain, it was the most beautiful pool I have ever been in.
Lake Manyara was very different, it was lush and cool, an inscription on the way into the park caught my eye, it said "Remove nothing from the park except nourishment for the soul, consolation for the heart and inspiration for the mind" The park was apparently the home to thousands of baboons, we soon found a few, it reminded of trips to the local safari park when I was a child, the baboons climbed onto the jeep, one little one started licking the window, it was so cute.
We saw so many giraffe, gazelle and elephant, some lovely pelicans that were tinged with pink, flamingos in the distance, it was another wonderful day. In thee afternoon we stopped at some tourist stalls that were on the side of the road they were filled with beautiful paintings and jewellery and the most wonderful ebony and mahogany carvings.
We left after a bit of haggling and a few souvenirs and went on to the local village which was called something like Mosquito creek....oh great I thought, but apparently all the mosquito's had gone! I wasn't convinced. We were given a lovely outdoor lunch with beer in a beautiful garden with lemon trees all around. After lunch we were taken on a tour of the local hospital where the doctor there (who was a Masai that had been lucky enough to go to school) told us of the work they were doing to try and combat AIDS, he showed us the wards, and then the kitchen where they patients have to cook their own food. They were building a maternity ward also and were also doing sterling work with immunisation. It was an eye opener and I will NEVER complain about the National Health Service here. After that we were taken to see a banana plantation, but were very surprised by a fierce hailstorm....who would have thought it? The hailstones were like golf balls, we took shelter under little hut where a family were carving the animals that go to the tourist shops, they explained that their father had come from Ethiopia (he had walked!) and he was a carver and he had taught all the boys to carve also, they were lovely, generous people and even offered to take us inside the house to shelter. The hailstorm passed and we carried on through the plantation, but the hailstones had caused devastation to all the banana plants it was a sad sight. My doubt about the mosquito's was confirmed as the dampness had brought them out in force! As we walked on we saw the local school the children ran to the fence to ask us for pens, I only had one left so popped it through the fence. I loved the fact all the children had little plastic cups and were collecting the hailstones and eating them, they had also removed their shoes and were splashing about in the water.
We left the pub and went back to our hotel for our final night, it had been an amazing (sorry) safari and while the safari was now at an end the holiday wasn't we had five days in Zanzibar to look forward to. Five days of relaxing, swimming and sunbathing.........no dust, no bumpy jeep rides, no more animals......I wondered how long it would take for me to get bored.
We arrived at our Serena lodge, as with the other lodges this one was wonderful, another amazing view and little hobbit huts to sleep in, again we were greeted with a white damp towel, again after I had wiped my face I was ashamed to hand it back due to the fact it was covered in red dust. We went to our room, watched the sun set set from our balcony, showered and went to dinner. We met a lovely Australian couple who were on their honeymoon, so after dinner we chatted and had a couple of drinks, but we didn't stay up too late as the next morning we were going on the hot air balloon flight over the Serengeti and we had to be up at 4am.
The one thing about the Serengeti lodge was after 7.30pm you were not allowed to walk outside alone in case of an animal attack, so you had to call reception to be escorted by a nice person with a large torch and a gun. We set the alarm for 4am, got ready, called for our escort and got taken to the breakfast room for coffee and cookies to get us going. We got into the jeep and began our trip, the drive itself was fabulous, because it was so dark (as we were in the middle of nowhere and of course there was no artificial light) the stars were unbelievable, there were so many and they were so bright. We saw eyes catching the headlights, one was the most beautiful leopard who walked right past the jeep, so at last we had made it to the famous big five, next a mother and baby hippo the first time we had seen one out of the water it was too dark for photo's but that sight is etched in my memory. All of a sudden the stars started to fade and a pink tinge hit the sky, only the very brightest stars and the moon remained we arrived at the "take off" site just as the sun began to rise.
There were two huge balloons, green and white stripes, half inflated each with a huge basket underneath lying on the side, each basket held 16 people plus the pilot so you can imagine just how big they were. We watched while the balloons were inflated, and while they were we had a briefing from the pilot, telling us how to get in and out of the basket, and which section we should get into, there were 8 little cubby holes each held 2 people, so you had to climb in feet first while the basket was on the side hold onto the ropes and then they would pull the basket upright by using a jeep, we all managed to do this apart from Esther who managed to climb in head first, so had they pulled the basket up she would have been standing on her head. Although the balloon was inflated it had only been filled with cold air from fans, so once we were all in it was time to light the burners, as the pilot hit the burner it felt like a winter night in front of a log fire, your face got that warm rosy glow, and then with a small bump we were up, as we took off a hundred or so gazelles ran underneath us, but as far as the animals go that was all we saw, they must of been hiding that day.
Although we didn't see any more animals (other than gazelle) it didn't spoil the flight at all, as there was nothing to see we went higher and further than a usual flight so it was fabulous. Then it just got better, after a very smooth landing we were presented with a champagne glass and a story from the pilot of how the first ever balloon flight had taken place over some farm land in France, the farmers had never seen anything in the sky other than birds, so in fright they tried to shoot it down but the pilot held a bottle of champagne over the side so the farmers knew they were friendly. Now bear in mind it was still only 8am, and they kept topping up our glasses, by 8.30am I had drank three glasses of champagne! We were then loaded back into the jeep and driven a short way to a clearing where there was a long table with a crisp white cloth, silver cutlery and more champagne glasses, we were treated to a full breakfast cooked in the open, more champagne, orange juice, coffee etc. As we sat eating and drinking a beautiful giraffe walked past us, I can't describe how wonderful it was. We had done so much already and it was only 9.30am (and five glasses of champers!)
We met back up with our guide Kavishe, we saw a hyrax, a flame headed lizard, some dwarf mongoose all while we were waiting to get back into the jeep, we then set off for another drive around the Serengeti. The morning started off quite poorly on the animal spotting front, we saw the odd gazelle, waterbuck, a blue crane but finally in the distance a sitting under a tree, enjoying the shade a beautiful cheetah.
We stopped for lunch, as it happened it was the same spot we had eaten breakfast, the giraffe had long gone, but we saw lots of wild mice, and golden crested starling. We finished our packed lunch and drove on, more lions under a tree, another herd of elephants more than 10 walking across the planes. We stopped by a watering hole, and found another family of lions, this time one male, two female and two cubs, they had put themselves under a tree right by the water, in the distance a line of Zebra waiting for a drink, but not coming any closer, what a clever idea any animal that comes for a drink is dinner for the lions. We watched the lions for over half an hour before continuing our drive up towards the hippo pool. We saw more buffalo on the way with tiny birds all over them picking off the insects. Then a few more giraffe, then for a long time we saw nothing, well I say nothing, of course the scenery was wonderful. The drive was long and very bumpy and I was starting to think if these hippo didn't get out of the water I would be really miffed! Then a fabulous sight, another jeep had stopped in front of us and pointed to a tree in the distance there was the most gorgeous leopard asleep in the tree. We took a couple of pictures and drove on, not two minutes later and this time right by the side of the road another leopard asleep in the tree.
His tail was wrapped around a branch and legs hanging down, we watched as it changed position. We finally arrived at the hippo pool, they did what hippos do best, snorted, rolled over in the mud and flicked water over their backs, none of them got out but I didn't mind, the sight of the leopard had appeased me. On the way back to the hotel we saw the arrival of the migration, animals that had walked up from Kenya to escape the dry season, row upon row of zebra hundreds of them all walking in lines into the Serengeti, next hundreds of wildebeest, then giraffe 10 in a row, then elephant, like they were taking it in turns, I could hardly believe my eyes.
Another game drive over, another wonderful day, you would think that we would have been tired seen as we have been up since 4am, but we were too excited. We got back to the hotel, Larry & Esther went back to their room, but Cath and I fancied a Kilimanjaro (lager) so walked over to the pool and patio area for a beer, we found an amazing patio area built into the side of the mountain, so we sat watching the sun set over the Serengeti drinking our beer. We went back to our hobbit hut to shower and get ready for dinner. As we arrived at the restaurant the waiter said to us "oh you have a bush dinner tonight" Now I had visions of I'm a celebrity get me out of here, but it was amazing we were led out into the bush, there was a big fire, a Masai group playing drums and singing, we were greeted with yet another glass of champagne and led to seats by the fire, we enjoyed the music and champagne for a while, and were taken to a table just the four of us, across the way a chef cooking BBQ for us, the food tasted better eaten under the stars, it was a perfect end to a wonderful day. ..........more to come but you'll have to wait.
After we watched the sun come up which incidentally was amazing (there's that word again ...sorry) we went to breakfast, while we were eating there were elephants just outside as the lodge was actually in part of the park. We finished eating and the much needed and fabulous Tanzanian coffee and joined Kavishe and Larry & Esther at the jeep. We began the decent into the Ngorogoro crater, now if you are of a nervous disposition you would be advised to close your eyes. The road was VERY primitive, the drop over the side enormous, the width of the road was narrow and the bumps and potholes very large. It was like being on a roller coaster ride, exhilarating, a little scary, and again if you are a girl, murder on the boobs!
Once we got to the flat of the crater my breath was taken away, it was the sheer number of animals, Kavishe told us there were over seven thousand wildebeest, four thousand zebra and four thousand antelope of one variety or another,they all stood or walked in lines, so you saw row after row of them, as far as the eye could see there were animals and birds, we saw crested crane, fish eagles, egret and a huge number of flamingos by the lake.
We drove slowly (pole pole in Swahili) through the crater and came across a golden jackal, and then a three hyena's eating a freshly killed zebra with at least twenty vultures close by waiting for their turn at the carcass. We saw more zebra, some warthogs, and then a large pond filled with hippos, snorting and flicking water over themselves to keep cool, it was then I decided I would quite like to come back as a hippo, they spend all day lying in cool water and mud, and then at night they come out eat their own body weight in food, and then slip back into the water....not bad eh?
Then in the distance and only with binoculars we saw a black rhino, Kavishe told us there were now only about 70 in the whole of Africa and to see one was rare as they were very shy, although we couldn't get close enough to get photo we had now seen four of the big five, but I did feel sad at the demise of this beautiful creature. We carried on driving and came across two more warthogs this time with 5 tiny babies, the funny thing is ALL baby animals are extremely cute, even though you know when they are fully grown they could probably tear you limb from limb.
We stopped at a lovely spot by a pond (I never know when a pond becomes a lake so it could have been a lake) for a packed lunch, while we ate we saw two hippo cooling themselves and lots of birds trying to get any crumbs they could. The guides were telling everyone not to feed the birds as when the tourists go they don't know how to find their own food. After lunch and a toilet break (now here I will mention that the toilets in the game reserves and a lot of the places you stop are actually holes in the floor and not very pleasant but when you gotta go you gotta go, and really speaking you don't want to go crouching behind a bush in a place that is filled with things that could kill you in seconds so you have to grin and bear it and breath through your mouth!)
We got back in the jeep and carried on with our tour of the crater, our guide Kavishe spotted a lion snoozing in the grass just next to the road, he explained it was up to the females to do the hunting, and sure enough the female crossed the road right in front of us, the second lot of lions we had seen up close, we watched until they disappeared and carried on driving.
We carried on driving and saw a hartbeast which was a type of antelope that looked like it had 4 ears, then lying in the sun another hyena. Kavishe told us there were no giraffe in the crater as they can't get up and down the sides, but there were elephant, buffalo and various other animals all of which we lucky enough to see. Just like that 4 hours were over and it was time to leave Ngorogoro crater and all it's inhabitants. Kavishe pointed to a red dirt road at an almost 90 degree angle on the side of the crater, and said "see that - we're going up there", apparently the crater has a one way system! Now if I thought the drive down was a little scary the drive back up was terrifying, again the road was narrow the drop a long way down, several times the jeep skidded and I thought that's it, I resisted the urge to ask if any jeeps had ever gone over the side! we held on for dear life and laughed nervously, one particular wheel spin that took us extremely close to the edge found me praying to God, and eventually we made it to the top. Just as we got to the top the heavens opened, torrential rain, thunder and lightening, I thanked God again that we weren't trying to drive up from the crater now the road was muddy! So it was on to our next stop the Serengeti.....to be continued again......